Expedition Overview

On June 15th, our team will embark on a 6 week expedition to the Charakusa Valley in the heart of the Karakorum, Pakistan. We will attempt to climb a 3,500 foot wall that tops out around 20,000 feet!

The West Face of Nafees Cap is a massive wall on the flanks of the famed K7. As this route starts at about 16,500 feet and tops out at 20,000 feet, it would be accurate to describe this wall as ‘an El Capitan on top of Mont Blanc.’ Our team has selected Nafee’s Cap as its primary objective because of its stunning aesthetic quality and more importantly, the classic looking plum line from the glacier to the summit remains unclimbed! There have been 3 attempts by world class teams, however, none of them have been successful on this ‘Directisima.’  This line has the potential to be one of the proudest, most aesthetic routes in the region. Our proposed route follows crack and corner systems in the area of the red line in the photo below.

Nafees’ Cap has been climbed by only two teams—first in 2007 and then in 2009.  The 2007 team climbed Ledgeway to Heaven in a sub-40 hour lightweight push, while the 2009 team spent nine days on Naughty Daddies. As you can see in the photo below, both teams chose routes on the shoulder of the formation instead of taking the hulking west face head-on. There has apparently been one attempt (without a summit) on this region of the face by a German team that retreated due to gear problems and a lack of time.

A: Naughty Daddies: 20 pitches, 5.12. (Lang-Standen-Dowrick-Sedon, 2009) B: Ledgeway to Heaven: 28 pitches, 5.12d. (Favresse-Favresse-Pustelnik-Villanueva, 2007)

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